| When I changed my rear wheel bearings on my TT, there weren't any good pictures so here are some pictures. I also had some questions-maybe your questions will be answered here. The L&R TT rear bearings ARE almost identical and can be swapped with a modification. A driver's side bearing can fit a pass side hub if you move the parking brake retaining pin (PBRP)as shown in pic 1 to pic 2. Why would you want to do this? I erroneously received 2 same side bearings. Also, depending on your source bearings are often priced differently per side. Thanks to daytonaz's rear wheel bearing writeup. Please note that this is for OEM rear wheel bearings only, aftermarket may have different offsets or construction. The driver and pass side rear wheel bearings are the same, except for the parking brake retaining pin (PBRP) in the bearing, which secures the parking brake anchor. They are identical except for the part number, PBRP side, and price. Please note that my car is a 90TT, yours may be different. I received 2 same side bearings, so I used a vise and some sockets to press out the PBRP out of the bearing to match the parking brake anchor. Be conservative when pressing the PBRP into the other hole, if the pin sticks out too far or back it will cause the bearing to not seat correctly. You can change the PBRP (metal pin from left side to right side) illustrated in pic 1 to pic 2. Below is a wheel bearing writeup. 
First, with the vehicle raised and secured, remove the wheel. Remove safety cup and cotter pin, wheel center cap. Lower car with wheel secured so that you can safely remove the driveshaft nut. Use 36mm socket to remove driveaxle/wheel bearing lock nut. A breaker bar here will make it easier-pictured is a comparison between the length of my bar to the 1/2 socket. 
Use a block of wood and penetrating spray to help loosen the driveaxle. Don't pound directly on the driveaxle, lest you damage the threads. Remove caliper, rotor(17mm). Tie the caliper to the side, as to not let it hang by the brake lines. Remove parking brake componets, note the springs/spacer relationships. 
Remove knuckle(17mm?), shocks, upper arms, ball joint. At this point, the driveaxle should come out if you have not yet removed it. For hicas, do not use a pickle fork style tie rod puller-it doesn't work and you will damage the boot, use a pitman arm or similar style puller-works like a charm and free from autozone. Below is a pic. This would be a very good time to have a new hicas tie rod end pressed in. 
Remove 4 bolts holding hub to knuckle (19mm), brake dust shield, and 1 bolt holding parking brake anchor pin, have bearing pressed out of hub. Installation is the reverse of removal..don't you just hate when it says that? So here are some torque specs, everything is in ft/lb, quantities are for 1 side: 4 bolts...hub/bearing-housing-knuckle....58-72
1 nut.....parking brake anchor pin.........159-224
1 hicas ball joint................................13-17
1 wheel bearing-driveaxle lock nut........152-203
5 wheel lug nuts................................72-87
1 lower arm ball joint nut/knucle............58-69
1 lower shock mount/knuckle................57-72
1 upper arm.......................................57-72
1 upper rear link.................................57-72 Also, tighten the bushings in their weighted, resting positions. And this would also be a good time to adjust the parking brake once the rotors are back on. In the picture with mad mspaint skills, the green thing at the bottom of the pic has a sprocket on it, turn it one way to tighten, the other to loosen.
|
Yet another rear bearing replacement post-with L&R comparos - 
